November 27, 2021

Milano Fashion Week explores new responsible paths

5 min read

The latest edition of Milan Fashion Week, held on September 22-27, 2021 and presenting mostly women’s collections for spring/summer 2022, was the first one that occured through a series of physical events after the pandemic has slowed down. Within this new happening, it also hosted a series of projects and collections focused on sustainability, while raising consciousness on environmental issues and discovering new alternative technology approaches.

Promoting the young
The Italian Fashion Chamber continues to support some interesting international talents by offering them a dedicated stage through the Fashion Hub initiative that for this edition was hosted inside Triennale di Milano. Among different projects, it also hosted the fourth edition of “Designers for the Planet,” an initiative that’s part of the CNMI program advocating sustainability in the fashion industry and promoting the talent of three emerging brands–Tiziano Guardini, Gilberto Calzolari and Re-generations–engaged in the development of eco-conscious collections.

Along with it, as a special collaboration with DHL, a sponsor of the Milanese event, the Camera60studio brand focused on a project aimed to raise awareness of commitment to sustainability among Italian craft businesses. Camera60studio is experimenting with DHL’s eco flyer, an item of sustainable packaging made of industrial waste materials, to produce an accessory-rich travel bag displayed at the Fashion Hub during Fashion Week. It also featured it in the Instagram competition “The Upcycling Bag. Sustainability is not an accessory.”

Caring for Sardinia
Among the various designers who participated in the Milanese Fashion Week, Antonio Marras set the video of his show in the natural scenery of Sardinia, an Italian region that had been badly hit by fires last summer. While hyping the beauty of his carefully crafted clothes, the designer’s choice was meant to express how fashion can sparkle a sign of rebirth despite the harmful disasters very probably provoked by human selfishness.

Look by Antonio Marras

Look by Antonio Marras

New ideas for better fashion
WP Store presented a series of sustainable novelties, one for each of the brands it offers. For s/s 2022 Baracuta will offer a selection of dead stock vintage jackets upcycled by adding a special print on each of them. And already since f/w 2021 Blundstone offers a 100% vegan boot.

Baracuta jacket

Baracuta jacket

Starting from f/w 2021 Burberry, the outdoor and total look brand that WP distributes in Italy, offers the Wax for Life service through which its jackets can be rewaxed and kept alive for a long time without creating waste.
Two other products of this brand–Barbour Lowland and Barbour 55°N–will be also available as entirely made with a special polyester for each of its parts like zippers, buttons, details, sewing threads and fabric. This way they can be entirely recycled.

Bridging virtual luxury with real products
For this season, the Italian brand Vivetta has mixed romantic and surreal looks of the 1960s with Space-Age fashion while celebrating speed and progress. Designer Vivetta Ponti also introduced a selection of unique pieces like a 1960s golden chain-mail sheath dress with vintage stones and a cat clutch studded with rhinestones that will be auctioned together with their NFT (Non Fungible Tokens) certification of digital authenticity. This way the designer is betting on digital assets that are becoming always more widespread in the worlds of art and fashion, becoming almost physical, and channeling an innovative concept of virtual luxury built from real products.

Vivetta for s/s '22

Vivetta for s/s ’22

Holidays memories
Italian designer Gilberto Calzolari re-created an atmosphere from his summer vacations in the 1960s in the Adriatic Sea Riviera, opting for eye-catching no-frills and easy to wear pieces made up of dresses, skirts and shorts with clean shapes and vintage-flavored volumes. Together with these memories he added references to the beaches of Okinawa, and more generally of Japan, by creating fabric origami in the shape of a pinwheel, the leitmotif of this collection. The whole collection is characterized by a vast range of bright and vibrant colors from pine green to fluorescent green, from pastel pink to purple, from orange to turquoise. Among the materials Calzolari has chosen there are a Seaqual polyester duchesse entirely recycled from plastics recovered from the sea, SFC certified linen and viscose, and GOTS certified organic cotton and silk organza.

Look by Gilberto Calzolari, s/s '22

Photo: Gilberto Calzolari

Look by Gilberto Calzolari, s/s ’22

How blue cars inspire better fashion
Calzolari also continues designing Volvo Studio Milano, a special capsule collection started in 2019 that he creates as an exclusive collaboration for the car brand. This limited edition is 100% Made in Italy, and only available at Volvo Studio Milano upon made-to-order, as result from an accurate research work of innovative, sustainable and technical materials.
The collection includes an asymmetric sleeveless dress, a midi dress, a shirt with scarf-neck and a pleated skirt made with a GRS-certified recycled polyester crêpe de chine by Clerici Tessuto made with a yarn obtained from collected plastic from the oceans.
The collection is inspired by the world’s launch of C40 Recharge, the first full electric Volvo car presented in a Fjord-blue hue and completed by the “Ethics Meets Aesthetics” slogan T-shirt made with GOTS-certified cotton and a series of accessories such as a tote bag and a bucket hat made from upcycling exploded airbags, and a travel sleep mask, also made with GRS-certified plastic obtained from plastic collected in the oceans.

Upcycled Fabrics
For this Fashion Week, Tiziano Guardini has collaborated with Colombo Industrie Tessili, an Italian textile specialist from Como for the new project Ecology of Mind-“We are born to bloom.” Within this project the designer has upcycled some of the company’s archive fabrics and yarns to be used for new pieces.

Outfit by Tiziano Guardini

Outfit by Tiziano Guardini

When shoes can walk a second life
Amarossa is a new Made in Italy shoe model that is entirely recyclable and compostable. This new project is part of KNTNR, a new start-up founded by CEO Katia Simionato and Christian Nucibella, founder and chairman of Filoblu, the company that manages the e-commerce distribution of the brand.

Amarossa

Amarossa

The Amarossa shoe is lightweight and comfortable and was designed by David Beauciel. It is available in two versions–in leather and in canvas and in a completely vegan model–and it is completely traceable from its materials to its end of life process.

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