In February 2021, Closed will launch a capsule collection as part of its A Better Blue eco-denim line (also see here). This new selection of the German denim and fashion brand offers completely degradable Made in Italy stretch jeans and jackets and includes two jeans fits for women, Gill and X-Lent, plus the jacket Twist, and the X-Lent and Drop fits, and a classic denim jacket for men.
Closed jeans using Candiani’s Coreva stretch denim
All garments are made of organic cotton and biodegradable stretch yarn Coreva, developed by the Italian denim mill Candiani, which has been partner of Closed for over 14 years and, along with the Italian denim laundry Everest, was a major contributor in the creation of previous drops from A Better Blue. Candiani is known for its sustainable denim innovations and, as it is headquartered in Robecchetto near Milan, an environmental protection area, it considers itself the “greenest weaving mill in the blue world.” The Italian denim manufacturer has developed the innovative, patented stretch yarn Coreva consisting of natural rubber, a sustainable alternative to conventional stretch yarns which mostly consist of elastane or other petrochemical fibers that can take centuries to decompose and pollute the environment. Coreva, on the other hand, decomposes after about six months on the compost without leaving any residue and is therefore much more eco-friendly.
Closed x Coreva campaign image: ‘less is more’.
To make these garments fully degradable, Closed has also substituted all other components of the jeans and jackets with natural alternatives. It replaced zippers and metal buttons with vegetable corozo buttons dyed with indigo pigments of plant origin. The studs are sewn on with Tencel thread, which is also used for all seams. The Closed logo does not appear on a leather patch but in lasered form. The labels consist of the degradable fabric Vinatur. The care label is made of organic cotton and all prints are made with natural pigments. All components also decompose on the compost without leaving any residue and without harming the environment. Therefore, these jeans and jackets can be naturally degraded in a compost–without any microplastic residue or chemical emission.
Closed jacket made of Coreva denim by Candiani
The garments of this collection were dyed and washed by using environmentally friendly methods that save water, chemicals and electricity, all techniques that Closed has been using since 2018 for its own eco-denim line. Detailed figures about the savings on water, electricity and chemicals can be found in Closed’s 2018/2019 sustainability report. The new report will be published in early 2021.
Uwe Kippschnieder, denim developer, Closed, and Simon Giuliani, global marketing director, Candiani Denim, explained how the project originated and where it will lead them.
Why did you start this project together?
Simon Giuliani (SG): The relationship between Candiani and Closed dates back to the early days of the brand. In all these years we’ve built a solid and trusted collaboration which led to a close friendship.
Both Closed and Candiani strive to constantly evolve their product. The genuine interest of Closed in our innovations gave birth to an R&D process that eventually brought to light the “A Better Blue” collection. Following that path the brand adopted all our latest sustainable innovations and built them into their jeans.
Due to the R&D relationship Closed is one of the first brands to access our latest and most relevant solution so far: Coreva.
Uwe Kippschnieder (UK): When Candiani told us of Coreva for the first time, they were very excited about this groundbreaking innovation. And due to the years of our close partnership we thought: “If they are so enthusiastic about a new invention, we here at Closed should be, too.”
Quickly we understood how great and unique the idea behind Coreva is, and we had no doubt that it would be a great extension of our eco-denim line A Better Blue.
Uwe Kippschnieder, Closed
What aims do you expect to reach through this capsule?
The aim is to fuse technology with style and to show that fashion no longer has to accept any compromises to be sustainable.
UK: As there are billions of tons of garments every year which are discarded in landfills we have to think of ways how we can reduce this impact. Within this topic, petrol-based fibers should have our special attention; they often take more than a hundred years to decompose as before Coreva all stretch-yarns were petrol-based. Sure our first Coreva drop might be just a very small step but as we are going the full way and offering the world’s first stretched jeans which are fully degradable, so not just the Coreva denim but also the stitching yarns, the buttons, the labels and so on, we are able to create attention and awareness for this important issue in general.
Simon Giuliani, Candiani Denim
Will this project be a one-shot initiative?
The projects we’ve done together have always evolved into a higher level, therefore, as far as I’m concerned, I think we will surprise you again soon.
UK: With this first drop of fully degradable stretched-denim garments we are also testing the reception of our clients towards this topic.
I am quite sure that they will appreciate this new aspect of our jeans and therefore I guess we will also work on an integration of Coreva in our main collection.
Are you focused in communicating these properties to the industry/the final consumer?
SG: Coreva is Candiani’s most significant innovation yet. After the patent went through at the end of 2019 in only three months this technology won two prizes: Positive Luxury–Innovation of the Year 2020 and Drapers Sustainable Fashion Award 2020. We believe to have found the solution to the worst problem of the fashion industry which is overproduction. Allowing a positive impact on the environment at its end of life, Coreva proves that circularity in the denim industry is possible.
The collaboration with Closed allows us to communicate this innovation on both B2B and B2C levels.
UK: For sure, Coreva is a milestone and a huge achievement for Closed. We will make sure that we can reach as many outlets (B2B, B2C and obviously our customers) as possible with this piece of news.
Uwe, how will you sell this capsule? Through all of your stores or through a few selected ones?
UK: This very first launch of Coreva garments will be sold exclusively in our own shops and through our online shop. Though, we will offer another degradable denim concept also using Candiani denims within our upcoming winter collection. And this will be offered also to all our wholesale partners.
Simon, will you also sell this capsule through the Candiani store in Milan and any of your e-commerce channels?
SG: For the Candiani Denim Store we have crafted a limited edition of women’s only pieces.
The capsule is called “Indigo Icon” (also see here), as a tribute to Closed’s iconic X-pocket fit and every jean comes in a special packaging together with a scarf.